by Kamakshi Pal
Kedarkantha in winter is a snow-globe of pine forests, golden sunrises, and a summit that humbles you at 12,500 ft. In February 2025, I did this trek solo—and as per Uttarakhand rules, I joined a certified guide at Sankri (I chose Himalayan Shelter). Here’s my full story as a certified mountaineer —raw, real, and practical—plus everything a beginner needs to plan this as their first snow trek.
My Kedarkantha Story (Feb 2025)
The mountains rarely go as planned—and that’s their magic. I’d trained, packed light, and kept my expectations quieter than the snow under pine. Kedarkantha had been calling me for years; in February 2025, I finally answered.
I traveled solo, but not “alone”—you can’t do Kedarkantha without a certified guide (more on that below). I reached Sankri, checked into Himalayan Shelter Guest House, and joined their next batch. Clean rooms, hot chai, zero fuss—they handled permits, logistics, and that one crucial thing in winter: safety.
That night, Sankri’s sky looked like someone spilled stars. I slept early—excited, ready, and a little awed.
Rules That Matter (Guide is Mandatory)
Uttarakhand’s regulations require you to trek with a certified guide/registered operator. This isn’t red tape—it’s safety and conservation. I joined Himalayan Shelter at Sankri and would recommend beginners do the same.
“Solo spirit is welcome; solo trekking isn’t. In Kedarkantha, the mountain is winter—and winter demands a guide.”
Make sure to carry a valid ID proof with you — it’s required for obtaining forest department permits before starting the trek.
My 4-Day Trail Diary
Day 1 — Sankri → Juda Ka Talab (4–5 km | ~4–5 hrs | 9,100 ft)
We made our way through oak and pine forests, with sunlight flickering through the branches and snow glistening like scattered crystals. Walking on snow comes naturally to me, but I could see the first-timers carefully finding their balance and rhythm. The trail starts with a short, steep climb before settling into a gentle, gradual ascent. So if you find the beginning a bit challenging, take it slow—breathe, pace yourself, but don’t give up.
All the trek companies set their camps a few meters before the frozen lake, surrounded by snow-laden trees. The temperature dropped well below freezing, and the silence was simply mesmerizing. This campsite tends to be colder than the base camp, so make sure to pack and wear proper thermals.
Day 2 — Juda Ka Talab → Base Camp (3–4 km | ~3–4 hrs | 11,250 ft)
Right after the lake, the trail becomes noticeably steeper as you make your way through dense pine forests. If it’s snowing, this stretch can get quite slippery, though I was lucky—when I went, there were just a few patches of snow. Eventually, we reached a wide, open snowfield with colorful tents scattered across the meadow and distant peaks glimmering on the horizon.
Dinner was simple—dal, rice, and soup—but the stories we shared made it special. Later, I slipped into my sleeping bag, fingers numb, heart completely full.
Day 3 — Summit (12,500 ft) → Descent to Hargaon (~6 km total)
We started at 3:30 AM, headlamps threading the dark, after having a cup of chai. Microspikes bit into ice; breath turned silver in the cold.
Summit: A 360° panorama—Swargarohini, Bandarpunch, Black Peak, Draupadi ka Danda—all aflame with sunrise. We lingered in reverence, then descended to Hargaon, laughing, sliding, sharing trail mixes with strangers who suddenly felt like friends.
Day 4 — Hargaon → Sankri (~6 km)
Easy forest descent. Back at Himalayan Shelter, I wrapped my hands around a steel cup of chai, watching the valley exhale. The trek ended; the feeling didn’t. What a beautiful experience it was.
What Beginners Must Know (From a Pro Trekker)
I find Kedarkantha manageable, not “easy.” For beginners, reality looks like this. Let me tell you what helped me.
Train 4–6 weeks before:
- Cardio: 30–45 min jogs, stair climbs
- Strength: Squats, lunges (3×15), core (planks/sit-ups)
-
Practice: Walk with a lightly loaded backpack
Snow Skills (your non-negotiables):
- Use microspikes & gaiters (rent in Sankri)
- Short, steady steps; plant poles before weight shift
- Pace > speed; breathe through your nose; hydrate
Altitude & Comfort:
- Sip water regularly, don’t sprint ascents, sleep early
- Respect the cold; protect fingers, toes, face
- Eat well—your body’s a furnace out here
“Mountains reward patience. On snow, slow is smooth—and smooth is fast.”
Gear: What I Carried vs What You Can Rent in Sankri
I carried;
- Broken-in waterproof trekking shoes (ankle support, deep grip)
- Thermal base layers, fleece, padded jacket
- 1-2 trek pants (avoid denim)
- 50–60L backpack with rain cover, headlamp + spare batteries
- Personal meds, mini first aid, sunscreen (SPF 50+), lip balm
- Power bank, ID, permit docs
- Waist pack
- Waterproof gloves
- Warm cap and balaclava
- UV protection sunglasses (to prevent snow blindness)
- Organizer Packs
- Food and Snacks: Trail mix, energy bars
Rented easily in Sankri:
- Microspikes, gaiters, trekking poles
- Snow boots, down jackets, sleeping bags (if needed)
-
Poncho / Raincoat
Tip: Check gear condition before renting; get a receipt.
Weather Snapshot (Winter Reality Check)
- Winter window: Dec–Apr (I went in Feb 2025)
- Day: ~5°C to –5°C (varies with wind/snow)
- Night: –10°C (lower at base/summit on windy nights)
- Expect fresh snow, icy sections, and early alpine starts for the sunrise summit.
Costs & Budget (Realistic, Feb 2025)
- Trek package (Himalayan Shelter): ₹8,000–₹10,000
- Dehradun → Sankri bus: ~₹700 (one way)
- Gear rental (spikes/gaiters/poles, etc.): ₹2,000–₹3,000
- Snacks & misc.: ₹1,000–₹2,000
Total: ₹13,000–₹15,000 (smart, safe, and snow-happy)
Money and Cash
Carry sufficient cash for personal expenses in Sankri and emergencies. There are no reliable ATMs beyond Dehradun. Purola is the last point with ATM facilities.
